Corsets for Men

"Don't laugh. I bet plenty of you men wear one of these!"- Elmer Fudd from The Wacky Wabbit, 1942. 

According to the following excerpt from an article printed in a 1921 issue of The Haberdasher, men's corsetry experienced a surge in popularity during the early 20s. (The days when men of Elmer Fudd's generation were eager young professionals, wanting to fit in, perhaps?). "The Baron" gives an enthusiastic, if a trifle haphazard, report of the latest trends, and events, in London menswear, and writes about a new and booming corset industry: "...the male corsetieres are doing a roaring trade..." he says, "...corsets for men are, in fact, openly advocated and boasted of, for the first time in my memory."

It might seem a little odd for men to re-adopt such a restrictive garment at a time when interest in sportswear and personal comfort were growing rapidly. However, the appeal of corsets begins to make more sense when one examines the popular silhouette at the time. The barrel chested suits of the 1890s and 1900s had become decidedly outmoded. Figure-hugging tailoring over subtle hourglass curves (which had been coming into fashion during the 1910s) was now in vogue, and going nowhere. The new silhouette was perfect for slightly curvy gentlemen, with naturally trim figures. However, it presented a challenge for fashion conscious gentlemen who didn't quite fit the new mold. For many, corsets may have seemed like a straightforward answer to a troubling style problem. 

Right: A men's coat form from 1922, advertised in The Clothier and Furnisher. This form represented the ideal silhouette of a gentleman already clothed in his long underwear, shirt, and waistcoat.

Everything Ultra

So, old top, what's the ultra word? Are you alive to being utterly utter? 

I'm discovering so many choice tid-bits of early 20th c. vernacular in these old magazines! This style guide is from a 1921 issue of The Haberdasher. 

Is Your Hat Becoming a Habit?

Poor Mr. Jones. There is no special thrill for him, on those days when he would like to "feel that he is helping decorate the landscape." He needs to find a clever hatter, like Mr. Smith's. One who can suggest the perfect hats to go with his suits. 

This little pair of captioned illustrations were printed in a 1921 issue of The American Hatter, providing their readers with hints and inspiration. 

Swimsuit Baseball

In July of 1921, 125 knit-goods selling agents got together for an outing, strictly fun, and no business. From the delightfully gossipy report below, it sounds like apart from a couple of small hiccups, the event went swimmingly.

A Novel Approach

The international Tailoring Company comes a courting: 

This coquettish two page spread from a 1920 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher is really something else. The left-hand page looks like the cover a romance novel, and on the right, we have the opening page. They are willing, and if you are too, they say, "there's nothing to stop us from finding each other out," but will you take the first step and write? 

Well, if the menswear business is romance, then that explains this bold hat advertisement from a 1910 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher:

Gargantuan Garters!

In 1909, the boardwalk at Atlantic City was home to a 40 foot tall, full color, light-up Brighton garter ad! The largest in the world!

An All-purpose Tie

This versatile skinny tie from 1910 may be sort of a "missing link" between the cravats and neck-cloths of old, and the specially shaped ties and bow-ties that we see today! 

I wonder what the "twelve desirable colors" were?

Your Best Asset

This ad copy is an absolute gem! It's so motivating! It just makes you want to get out there and tailor your way to success, "through the sheer attractiveness of good clothes!"

Picking Daisies

Could you pick just one, or would you want to collect whole bouquet?

This Young Hat Company advertisement was printed in a 1910 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher. 

Self Styled?

Here is a 1910 installment of Dandies of the Stage. From "Beaunash's" little critique below, it seems that stage actors in performances with contemporary settings were, at times, responsible for styling their own costumes. Naturally, this resulted in some rather confused ensembles. I wonder if, as the film industry developed, the meticulously crafted male wardrobes featured in motion pictures, encouraged live theater costumers to dress their contemporary characters a little more carefully. 

Roxford Shoppers

This ad from a 1910 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher, shows a couple of stylish gentlemen, shopping for their Roxfords. A sales clerk carefully measures the customer on the left, to insure a that he gets a perfect fit, while the second shopper  scrutinizes the merchandise. The man behind the counter looks a little tense, watching the expressions of his choosy young customer. Will "the good knitted underwear" be good enough for him? Note the little Roxford poster hanging above the counter; an ad within an ad.  

Stockings for the Noble

Are you a good man? Are you true? Then "Onyx" Hosiery is for you!

This Onyx Hosiery ad was printed in in a 1910 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher. I love the delicate little illustrations of clocked stockings in opera pumps, and Lord and Taylor's bold claim, that they can offer "all shades, to match any color scheme desired." I wonder if they had their own dye house?

Full STEAM Ahead!

This Strauss & Bros. ad from a 1910 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher is everything and a bag of chips! It features a Muchaesque Progress, who reclines on a ship's wheel, a car, and a locomotive, while gracefully saluting the text: "High Art Overcoats for Men and Young Men." Meanwhile air-ships run rampant over an Italianate landscape, careening through a rose-decked archway that is precariously balanced on a flying globe. What a wonderfully bizarre celebration of science, technology, engineering, art, and mathematics (STEAM)! 

No More Red Flannel

I am truly impressed with the variety of "nude" shades available in this 1910 Roxford men's long underwear ad from The Clothier and Furnisher! Their color chart also includes white, heliotrope, pearl, steel, and two shades of pale blue. 

Kings and Pretenders

In a 1913 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher, "Beaunash" weighs in again with his usual sagacity. This time, he discusses the diversity of perspectives in visual interpretations of the word "Fashion." Aesthetics dictate style, and proportion, presence, and point-of-view all inform Aesthetics. As "Beaunash" puts it: 

"In simple reason, every fashion cannot be becoming to everybody, and as long as men are short and tall, stout and thin, round-faced and oval-faced, full-cheeked and lean-cheeked, thick-haired and bald, mustached and clean-shaven, they will keep on doing with fashion just about what they please." 

- Beaunash

I think the little article below is an absolute gem.

Natural Blondes

No bottle-blonde silk used to make these summer novelties!

Speaking of "summer novelties." I couldn't figure out for the life of me, what kind of product was being featured in the ad above. Were they hat-bands? Belts? Scarfs? Finally, I found another ad from the same company, and discovered that the mysterious blondes were actually neck ties. 

Both these ads were printed in 1910 issues of The Clothier and Furnisher. 

T-Straps for the Roxford Boy

I found another marvelous illustration from a Roxford long underwear ad in a 1908 issue of The Clothier and Furnisher. The gentleman in the illustration appears to be enjoying a peaceful moment with his paper, but his secure grip on his chair-seat makes me wonder what sort of sensational news story (or serial) he might be reading. Speaking of sensational, check out the amazing pair of T-strap sandals he's wearing!

Oh, don't say that!

Some issues of The Clothier and Furnisher had a special gossip column. Not just a chatty column referred to as "the gossip column" in moments when it's official title was forgotten, mind you, but a full blown page, with an elaborate header proclaiming exactly what you would find below.

And in the gossip section of a 1909 issue, I found the following delicious tidbit:

My, what a powerful writer's voice! Our gossip seems tickled giddy, over the introduction of purple silk belts to the 5th avenue menswear scene. I wonder how many gentlemen took full advantage of the new purple accessories, and became "things of beauty" and "joys forever?"

Panama Posies

Remember that colorful 1917 ad, declaring that is was "Time to Blossom forth" with the flowers and butterflies, by indulging in a little fine tailoring from the International Tailoring co? Well, here is a wonderful behind-the-scenes look at a 1920 ad campaign that took a similar angle, with wild success!