Tuesday, August 28, 2018

The Men of Men's Wear

Below are a collection of headers and titles from 1910 issues of Men's Wear. They are all very carefully illustrated, but at first glance, they might seem like a rather unusual choice for decorating the articles in a fashion trade journal. You see, despite the title of the publication, there is remarkably little men's wear to be seen in them. Perhaps they are the result of a bold attempt to make the magazine stand out from the rest, as undisputedly artsy. they might also be the sartorial community of 1910's equivalent to decorating the pages of a car magazine with assorted engine parts- a kind of decorative use of the figures that hold up and round out the men's wear. 


The title page is decorated with what appears to be Industry, gracefully waving a banner and balancing a globe. He is flanked by two glossy companions, who I'm guessing might be Trade and Agriculture. I keep chuckling, because the title for the semi monthly men's wear industry report is "THE SITUATION."

***

The header for the "Selling Ideas" section is a little harder to interpret. Are these fit fellows thinking inside the box? Their boxes do appear to be decked with festive strands of floating ribbon. Are they gifted thinkers? 

***

The Men's Wear market report header is decorated with a sheet clad horseman, riding into the fray of a fiercely competative market, perhaps. 

***

Gravity defying ribbons make another appearance in the header for "Stock Taking in a Country Store." The illustrator appears to have been determined to squash his men into one of the most dramatic S curves I've seen in a while. Hogarth would have been proud! I'm pretty uncertain about the objects that the men are carrying. They appear to be mallets of some sort, but might also be a kind of a torch. 


***

Last, but not least, is one of the least abstract headers in the group. It is made up of two picturesque painters in wind-swept drapery, and they seem right at home above a section of the publication dedicated to ads, signs, illustration and typography. 






Sunday, August 26, 2018

Exchanging Hats

Here is another Art Helfant comic strip about the haberdashery business. This time it is from from The American Hatter in 1921. 


Friday, August 24, 2018

There's No Party Like an Amtex Party

In 1921, Amtex ran a series of full-page ads, that, in my opinion, really take the cake for bizarre 1920s underwear advertising. Each ad features a photograph, that by itself, borders on the inexplicable. However, when all the ads are viewed together, I begin to get the strong impression that they could be a record of one very wild and memorable slumber party, thrown by a very eccentric assortment of freinds and relations. 

Here is a tour of the slumber party: 

In the living room, Joe finds himself playing, what he fears are the dual roles of peace-maker and babysitter. No one batted an eye, when, after dinner, Sal produced his new fishing tackle and began to cast wildly about the room. However, when one wayward cast hooked Phil's slipper, and Sal, refusing to give up his prize, danced off merrily with it, Joe was recruited to get it back again. Caught between Sal's laughing taunts, and Phil's smug assertions that Joe would "show him!," Joe begins to wish that he had joined cousin Oswald, and his less vivacious freinds, in the library. 


Everyone is suddenly startled by a hoarse shriek and a crash coming from uncle Howard's room. Billy and AJ, who just completed a course in first aid, rush heroically to the rescue! They find uncle Howard standing on a chair, mopping his brow with a handkerchief, and pointing in mute horror at a small bureau. 
"What's the matter?" ask his would be rescuers. 
"It's behind the dresser!" comes the throbbing reply.
"What's behind the dresser?"
Uncle Howard mops his face again, and whispers "A spider!"
Billy and AJ compose their features, out of respect for uncle Howard, and set to work coaxing him down from his chair. He reluctantly descends, but will not be easy until the offending spider is extracted from behind the bureau, and removed from the premises! 

Cousin Oswald, and his bookish compatriots are quietly ignoring the wild shouts and sounds of scraping furniture that emanate from uncle Howard's quarters. They are comfortably settled in the library, with cigars and chocolates, for a dramatic reading of the newspaper. 


Meanwhile, at the other end of the house, Ted, Pete, and Wilbur (who everyone calls Stretch) have gotten into uncle Fred's weapon collection, and are up to no good, kicking up the carpet and stepping all over the sofa cushions. Pete tries to look stern, and warns Stretch not to horse around with sharp objects. It's mighty hard to take him seriously, though, when he can't stop giggling.   


Poor uncle Fred, oblivious to the chaos reigning in his study, has just convinced his brother-in-law to try out a new, invigorating, fitness routine that he learned about in a promotional pamphlet for a correspondence course. Like any dignified gentleman in possession of a rec room, he had originally wished to hold his impromptu mini course there. However after peering into that useful apartment, he suddenly changed his mind and relocated to the dining room. If we take a look in the rec room, the reason for his quick departure becomes apparent.


You see, Felix, Carol, and Thaddeus, have gathered there to learn one of Felix's picturesque baton dances that he, and several of his artistic freinds, have been hoping to perform, one day, when they feel that their choreography has reached perfection. Both Thaddeus and Carol are somewhat in awe of Felix, who knows several real photographers, and has had, what he claims is his likeness, in several art galleries. 

They don't tell Felix that they can't make sense of half of what he says. Felix doesn't tell them that he's been leading all of his artistic acquaintances to believe that he's from Sicily. There is an electric light in the room, but Felix says he dances better when he "can see the moonbeams," and Thaddeus and Carol have yet to achieve anything by arguing with Felix. 


Thursday, August 23, 2018

A Hat Style Creed

In 1921, The American Hatter published "A Hat Style Creed," outlining five fundamental beliefs of the conscientious hatter. The creed was created in celebration of the fall hat style weeks, which ran from September 1st to 15th, 1921. 


Men deserve to have all the fun there is in hat wearing!     


The piece is attractively framed in a boarder of wild roses, and offers a message to hat sellers, and hat lovers everywhere, touching gently on themes of service, gender equality, aesthetic harmony, and embracing individual style. The instructions say to read the creed and then pass it on. To assist in reading the small text, I've re-typed A Hat Style Creed below the original. 


A Hat Style Creed

  • We believe that hat wearing is more a matter of pleasure and pride than of strict necessity; that the hat is more an article of ornament than of protection; and that the men we sell to deserve to have all the fun there is in hat wearing. 
  • We believe that a harmoniously hatted man can create a stir of admiration in the human mind as well as a cleverly millinered woman. 
  • We believe that no man is well hatted unless his hat properly harmonizes with the shirt, collar, cravat, suit and shoes he is wearing at the time. 
  • We believe that every gentleman should have enough hats always to be well-hatted, according to the above definition.
  • We believe that it is the duty of the hat seller to assist and advise his patrons so that the hat is always the one most suitable to the face and costume under it. 




Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Jr. Shutterbug

What an adorable sock ad, from the pages of the June 1920 issue of The Underwear & Hosiery Review! It looks like this young fashion photographer has found a very stylishly turned out little model, to take pictures of. 


Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Adventures in Haberdashery

During the early 1920s, The Haberdasher ran a nifty little contest called "The Funniest Sight" where shopkeepers and sales clerks could share stories of their most amusing or bizarre experiences in the the haberdashery business. The top two or three entries would be printed and illustrated each month, and the winner received $5.00.


Below are two hilarious anecdotes from The Haberdasher's "Funniest Sight" contest of April 1922. Click the text to zoom.



















Monday, August 20, 2018

Fashion Disaster

Behold, a tale of fortunes reversed, of trust betrayed, and the revelation of concealed truths! 

This priceless bit was printed in a 1921 issue of The Haberdasher

Friday, August 17, 2018

Merry's Windows

The Haberdasher and The Clothier and Furnisher would regularly run contests for the best window displays in the country, and I noticed, after scanning through several issues, that a certain window dresser from the midwest kept appearing in the winners' circle. He stood out, because while all the other winners usually had their hair slicked back, or to one side, the talented Mr. Merry, was always pictured with his locks piled into a wonderful pyramidal structure, daringly perched on the top of his head.


There he is, on the right, above some of the other winners of The Haberdasher's Display Championship. In 1921, he would win the championship for a second time. 

Here he is some years earlier, winning 2nd place in The Clothier and Furnisher's 1912 window dressing contest. 



And Here he is again, winning a Clothier and Furnisher competition in 1913, giving a little credit to his school. This bit was printed in Merchants Record and Show Window.



Below are some more examples of Mr. Merry's prize-winning work from The Haberdasher's 1920 Contest:



So, after seeing this shining star of window dressing pop up in periodical after periodical, you can imagine my excitement, when I saw the headline: "The King of Display Men Speaks!"In the following article, Mr. Merry sets down his guidelines for success: 

Thursday, August 16, 2018

Working the Long-johns

Several articles I've found on window-dressing in 1920 and 1921 issues of The Haberdasher, included the opinion that long underwear were an inherently awkward article to display, model, or illustrate, since, as one contributor put it: they just aren't aesthetic. However, my reading also revealed a sort of consensus, that the addition of a dressing gown could increase the window-appeal of a union suit exponentially. 



The illustrator of the advertisement on the cover of The Underwear & Hosiery Review, below, seems to have taken that advice and flown with it, and the result is an explosion of plush luxury and fierce attitude.




I'm not sure who the illustrator is, but their work contains many similar elements to Rene Gruau's menswear illustrations from the mid to late 20th century. Perhaps this illustrator's work provided Gruau with a little inspiration?  Two of Gruau's pieces are below, for comparison. 




Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Story Time

I truly felt as if I'd stumbled across buried treasure, when I discovered an entire twelve-page picture book, printed in the July 1910 issue of Men's WearIt is a beautifully illustrated allegorical tale about a rowing match between two different marketing approaches. The whole thing is a delightful treat from start to finish, so I've gone ahead, and posted the entire piece below. Enjoy! 
















Sunday, August 12, 2018

Plotting a Comeback

For the last couple of centuries, western menswear has been largely shaped by what a select number of taste-makers declare to be correct, tasteful, and manly. It doesn't matter if they endorse fur collars, leather pumps, blue and gray suits, or lavender pajamas, when the demigods of fashion have spoken, the menswear industry, as a whole, puts its shoulder to the wheel, and makes a valiant effort to win some small sign of their icy approval    


Of course, what do you do, when the demigods of fashion decide to turn up their discerning noses at your branch of the industry? What if you no longer fit in with the aesthetics of the moment, or worse still, what if they dismiss your products as gauche? What were the experts in sequin embroidery to do, when Beau Brummell denounced the wholesale bedazzling of the tailor's craft?


Below is a letter to the editor of The Jeweler's Circular from August 1st 1922, addressing an article exploring the issue. As the public fascination with sports began to inform the laws of menswear, the trend-setters and taste-makers of the day decided that little glittering accessories should, for the time being, be kept to a minimum. Jewelers needed a plan to re-establish the market for men's jewelry, when the average Joe on the street had, out of respect for his favorite trend setters, firmly decided that most jewelry was no longer "correct." 







Saturday, August 11, 2018

Diamond Dragnet

I've found that most fashion industry journals from the 1920s are quiet affairs. They publish the latest trends in lapel notches, and the best ways to arrange silk neckties in windows. The height of drama, on their well ordered pages, might be a little coy feuding between fashion scholars and adventurous trendsetters, or perhaps a hint of a copyright infringement scandal. 


Not so, with The Jeweler's Circular! That robust periodical is glittering with more drama than a rack of dime novels! Jewel heists, automat holdups, car chases, cavalier criminals who give their victims sporting chances at escape, bugged hotel rooms, and detectives in disguise, The Jeweler's Circular has it all in spades. 


Here's one example that is the stuff of Hollywood classics!



Friday, August 10, 2018

The Genuine Article

No delicate hot-house fashion illustrations here, we are assured. This is a real  man,  an intense  man, cutting loose with a real,  gutsy primal bellow! And, he's wearing a real  hat, one that's just as intense as he is!


According to this ad from a 1910 issue of Men's Wear Semi Monthly, Eagle Brand Caps would include a copy of the "forceful and attractive" oil painting, with every order of a few dozen "Gaylor" hats. But, who is this rough-and-tumble force of nature featured in the painting? What kind of man was chosen to be a visual representation of manliness, confidence and indomitable spirit? A closer look at the advertisement reveals the painting's title, and the subject's occupation: 







Thursday, August 9, 2018

The Collar Struggles Continue

The quest to wear the latest in snug 1920s collars, claims another fashion victim , in this Art Helfant cartoon from a 1921 issue of The Haberdasher.