Thursday, August 2, 2018

Prize-Winning Prototypes

Like the stock market, the fashionable male's waistline has a tendency to go up and down over the decades, and in the early 1920s it momentarily alighted somewhere near three quarters of the way down the fashionable male's ribcage. 


Below are three prize winning jackets by H. Daroff and Son.'s designer, Pietro Yantorno. Note how, on Yantorno's third prize model, that the waist suppression begins almost right under the arms, and on the belted model (lower left), by Dryfous and Lang's designer, Gus Reinhardt, the belt seems to be placed right above the point of the elbow. 


I'm guessing that these high-waisted jackets were a real joy for naturally short-waisted gentlemen. Their particular physique had not been a trendy one in western fashion, for at least a century. Finally in the late 1910s and early 1920s, they could purchase ready-made jackets, that were cut to be the narrowest, right where they were naturally the slimmest.       




Speaking of slim, in the following collection of jackets by international designers, one can see some fine examples of the "marked tendency to waisty effects" mentioned by " The Baron." in 1921.  




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